crown time

That hat I started last week? It’s going swimmingly, thank you very much:

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This newer, looser iteration constitutes a major improvement! Fortunately, it’s still proving to be a fairly quick knit, with the result that I’m just about to head into the crown decreases. As I think I may have already mentioned, the genius of this slip stitch pattern is that every other row is just mindless stockinette in the main color. The mix of “row where you have to pay attention” and “row to zone out on” is perfect for me–miles and miles of boredom aren’t really my thing, but there’s also only so much time you can spend on something crazily intricate. It’s a balance I often try to strike in my design work: I like things to have a few quirks, unusual details, or opportunities to try new techniques, but I don’t want them to overwhelm the piece. It’s all about the happy medium, right?

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Bought Amna or thinking about it? Read on!

As you may know, my Amna Cardigan pattern has recently been added to the Knitpicks Independent Designers program:

Knitpicks liked the pattern so much, they decided to feature it in their summer catalog! Exciting, right? However, there was a small error in the catalog listing, and the pattern was priced at $2.99, a significant discount off the usual price.

Because the catalog had already been printed, I decided to go ahead and let Knitpicks run the pattern at this lower price through June 25th, 2012.

So, how does this concern you?

1. If you’ve been thinking of buying Amna, go ahead and snap it up over at Knitpicks! I believe you can also get 15% off City Tweed DK yarn when you purchase the pattern

2. If you’ve already bought Amna, you might be feeling a bit annoyed about having missed out on this deal. So, I want to do something to make it right. Unfortunately, I can’t offer refunds to cover the price difference. However, I would like to offer anyone who’s previously purchased Amna the chance to get a free pattern of their choice from my Ravelry store, now through June 25th, 2012.

If you purchased the pattern on Ravelry or through this website, getting your free pattern is easy: simply go to my Ravelry store, select the pattern of your choice, add it to your cart, and then enter the code AmnaFree. The new pattern should then show up as free. If you are having problems using the code, please shoot me a PM on Ravelry (CatherineS), or email (catherine @ studiomarlowe DOT com) and let me know your paypal address and Rav username–I’ll verify that you’ve made the purchase and gift you the free pattern.

If you purchased the pattern through Patternfish, Knitpicks, or Craftsy, you are also eligible for the free pattern offer, but the process is a little different. You’ll need to forward me your proof of purchase (a receipt of some sort with the pattern name clearly visible), and let me know which pattern you would like (again, anything in my Ravelry store is an option). When I receive your email and have verified your purchase, I’ll email you the appropriate PDF. Alternatively, if you would like the free pattern stored in your Ravelry library, let me know what your Ravelry username is and I’ll gift it to you.

I sincerely hope this offer helps to ease any hard feelings you might have over the Knitpicks catalog error. If you know anyone who has purchased the Amna pattern previously, please feel free to let them know of this offer.

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New pattern: Cocoa Rosa gloves and mitts!

I’m pleased to announce that the Cocoa Rosa pattern is now available for purchase:

IMG_0917 Pink rose mitts

$6.00 or add to cart

The pattern includes instructions for both gloves and mitts, and is available in five sizes, with finished palm circumferences of 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8.25, 8.5)”; 16.5 (18, 19, 21, 21.5) cm. You can find more information on the Cocoa Rosa pattern page here on the website, or pop on over to the Ravelry pattern page.

This pattern was so much fun to design, and it makes a great small project now that we’re heading into summer. I hope you enjoy knitting it!

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Uses for scrap yarn: stitched cards (with tutorial)

This past weekend was Mother’s Day in the US, and I celebrated by making her a card:

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If you’re like me and you knit a lot, you probably accumulate a lot of short lengths of leftover yarn. If it’s more than a couple of inches, I feel like I just have to save it. It would be a waste to throw it out, right? Of course, then I have to figure out what to do with all those short lengths of yarn. I’ve been known to use them as stitch markers, stuffing for knit toys, and last summer, I even put some of my leftover yarn collection to use tying up tomato plants in my garden. All of which is well and good. But these stitched cards are, I think, an especially nice use of that yarn, because they actually show the yarn off to good advantage. The yarn is the star, not some hidden support.

So, today, I’ll walk you through the process I used to make this card. First, I pulled out my colored pencils, a piece of 11×14″ heavy-duty sketch paper folded into quarters, my bag of yarn scraps, and a sewing needle. I decided I wanted to make an image of daffodils, so I googled “daffodil sketch” and decided on this image. I traced the image on the front quarter of my 11×14″ paper:

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Note that if you are a good artist or drawing a less complicated image, you probably don’t need to have a picture to trace from. If you do need to go looking for an image, I highly recommend copying a sketch or cartoon style image, rather than a photograph. Sketches will typically show the lines you need to copy more clearly.

Once you have your outline, break out the colored pencils and fill in the color:

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Next, get ready to stitch. For a detailed image like this, I separated a worsted weight yarn into four plies, and threaded a single ply onto the sewing needle at a time. You can use thicker yarns if you are making a less detailed image.

Use your needle to prick holes around the outline of the piece. Be careful not to place the holes too close together! Unfortunately, “too close” varies significantly with the weight of your paper and yarn, so I can’t give a precise spacing guideline. The thicker your yarn (or the thinner your paper), the further apart your holes should be. I like to prick a small section at a time, stitch it, and then prick the next section:

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When stitching, keep the 3-d nature of the card in mind. Stitch parts of the image that you want to be in the “back” first, and then work your way to the “front”. So in this case, I stitched the green stems, then the yellow flowers.

You can use this technique for all sorts of different images, from simple to complex. Here’s a sampling of cards I made last year for Valentine’s day, to give you some ideas:

Hearts and flowers (50 crafts #5 and #6)

embroidered V-day cards

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double green

Remember this hat from last fall?

bad hat.

It was cute, but the stitch pattern in single sided form wasn’t well-suited to a close-fitted toque style. So I ripped it out and am reimagining it as a tam, but with not too much slouch:

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So far, the re-knit is working up nicely, though it needs another few rows before I can really declare satisfaction. I am loving the slip stitch motif–it looks tricky, but is really fairly simple. A perfect small project to alternate with my Harvest cardi.

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Cocoa Rosa is coming!

Just a quick post to let you know that I’ve got a definite release date slated for Cocoa Rosa: May 15th (2012, obviously).

The pattern includes instructions for four sizes: 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8.25, 8.5)”; 16.5 (18, 19, 21, 21.5) cm palm circumference, which makes it suitable for most adult women and probably also pre-teens (though you should of course check the hands of your intended recipient to make sure!). Directions are provided for both a full-on gloves version, and simpler fingerless mitts:

Rose gloves

Pink rose mitts

If you’re looking for a small warm weather knitting project or getting a head start on holiday gift knitting, this is a great pattern to try out. And! If you are signed up for my email list, you’ll receive an email on the 15th with a special discount coupon. You can only get the discount through the email list, so do make sure to sign up if you aren’t already!

More details on the pattern (yarn, needles, that sort of thing) can be found on the Ravelry pattern page.

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tetris afghan tutorials: two square rectangle

I did some more afghan work this weekend which means…another tutorial!

Remember the small square from last week, and how I mentioned the small square is a building block for many of the other pieces? This week, I’ll cover one of the easiest pieces to build, the two-square rectangle:

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This piece is essentially two small squares, worked simultaneously. Super easy. Ready to make one?

First, you’ll need to cast on 60 stitches. These stitches will divide to form three edges as follows: 15-30-15. So, if you are picking up stitches from and existing piece of knitting, you could pick up 15 from one edge, 30 from an edge that is perpendicular to the first edge, and the final 15 from a third edge that is perpendicular to the second edge. You can also do a combination of picking up and casting on stitches, here I’ve cast on 15 stitches for the 1st edge, but picked up 30 and 15 stitches for the 2nd and 3rd edges:

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Row 1: K 13, ssk, pm, k2tog, k 26, ssk, pm, k2tog, k13:

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Row 2 and all even rows: k all sts
Row 3 and all remaining odd rows: k to 2 sts before 1st marker, ssk, k2tog, k to 2 sts before 2nd marker, ssk, k2tog, k to end of row

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until there are 8 sts on the needles. As you knit, you’ll see the diagonal of the square forming in between the two sets of repeated decreases:

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After the final repeat of row 3, knit 1 row, then turn work and (ssk, k2tog) twice. Turn work,(ssk, k2tog, 2 sts remain on the needles. Cut the yarn and thread back through these two stitches.

And that’s the end of the two square rectangle!

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tetris afghan tutorials: small square

Yes, a tetris tutorial! I’m making good on my goal of knitting at least one piece per week. Last time I posted about the afghan, I know I said I was going to do a “new” piece, but I realized that I have somehow skipped ever doing a tutorial for the piece that is a building block for most of the other pieces in the afghan, the small square:

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I did post a tutorial for the large square, and this small one is very similar, just with different numbers. But again, it’s the fundamental building block for many other pieces, so it really ought to have it’s own separate tutorial, right? Here goes.

First, you’ll need to cast on 30 stitches. If you are picking up stitches from an existing piece of knitting, you’ll need to pick up from two perpendicular edges, picking up 15 on each edge. You can also pick up 15 stitches from an existing edge and cast on 15 stitches to form the second edge. Just make sure you have 30 stitches total in such a way that there are two sets of 15 at right angles to each other (i.e., DON’T pick up 30 stitches from 1 straight edge!):

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Row 1: K 13, ssk, pm, k2tog, k 13:

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Row 2 and all even rows: k all sts
Row and all remaining odd rows: k to 2 sts before marker, ssk, k2tog, k to end of row

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until there are 4 sts on the needles. As you knit, you’ll see the diagonal of the square forming in between the two repeated decreases:

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After the final repeat of row 3, knit 1 row, then turn work and ssk, k2tog so that there are 2 stitches remaining. Cut the yarn and thread back through these two stitches. You’re done!

Curious about how to use this small square to build larger pieces? You might want to check out my earlier tutorial, small square L from the outside in. And keep an eye out for future tutorials, I’ve got one planned for next week already!

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repeat one

I made it up to the second (of four) body decreases on my cardigan, which I’ve now dubbed “Harvest”:

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In addition to having half the body decreases done, I’ve also now worked one full repeat of the color motifs. It’s definitely a long repeat, over 20 rows. But I like the alternation between the two main sub-repeats, the red “wheels” (as I’ve taken to calling them) and the dark green “bursts”. I’m also really enjoying the switch-off in dominance between the suite of greens and the warmer red and gold colors.

One thing I dislike about colorwork sweaters is figuring out how to work body decreases into the pattern. Sure, if you’re going to be super traditional, you just don’t bother with waist shaping, but what can I say? I like something a little more fitted. So, I decided to bypass the issue by creating side panels where the decreases could be incorporated, without interfering with the primary motifs:

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I’ve chosen to keep things fairly minimalist and simply knit a series of upside-down “V” shapes, which will be inverted when the increases begin on the upper part of the body. Theses blend well with some repeated “V” themes in the main part of the sweater, and to my way of thinking, simplify the knitting process considerably. No more pausing to think about which stitch I’m now starting the post-decrease portion of the row on!

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out of hibernation

Long-time readers of this blog have probably seen this project before:

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My never-ending Tetris afghan. Ravelry informs me that it has only been on the go since 2008, which I guess is not as bad as it could be.

Still, I want that project basket freed up for other stuff. And I want a second handknit blanket so I can stop moving my striped mitered square afghan between the bedroom and the couch!

So it’s time to make an action plan. My goal is to knit one shape per week, and to sew in at least 4 ends (so as to make some headway on all the ends that I have not sewn in as I go). I’ll be posting progress pictures periodically (assuming I stick with it, of course). I have my shape for this week planned out, it’s a new one, so keep an eye out for another tutorial in the afghan pieces series next week!

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